Reverse Osmosis System Installation Instructions
Reverse Osmosis – Unit RO-UKWF
INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Note about using a Plumber: This system is designed for DIY installation so no plumber is required. It will probably take you between 60 to 90 minutes. If you want someone to do it for you a reasonably skilled handyman can do it - ie you don't need to pay plumber rates.
Difficult parts: Besides drilling a small hole in your countertop for your new filtered water tap the only challenge you might face is if you don’t have a suitable place on your under sink trap to attach the Drain Saddle Clamp (See Step 4). In this case you can simply put in a longer trap - a fairly simple job which could be done yourself.
BEFORE YOU START
ONE: Carefully read through these instructions. Note the Installation Diagram at the end
TWO: Make sure you have Normal Water Pressure
ie Minimum Water Pressure 2.7 bar (40psi) Maximum Water Pressure 5.8 bar (84psi).
If you suspect your pressure is low – check this before installing. See Note 1 Below (Operating a system outside the guidelines will result in poor performance and will void the warranty).
For High Pressure You will need or a Pressure Reducing Valve.
THREE: Tools you will need
1) A normal electric drill with a 12 mm drill bit and a 4 mm drill bit (For Steps 4 and 5).
2) A spanner or pliers.
3) Stanley knife or scissors for cutting tubes. (Always ensure the tube ends are cut square).
4) A screwdriver (for Step 1) plus rawl plugs and screws.
FOUR: We recommend you plan the layout / location of each major part of your new system. Ie the main Reverse Osmosis unit and the tank. Ideally at least the former needs to be under your sink, close to the tap and Drain Clamp – see Step 4 below. Your tank should be close as well but if you have enough tube it can be positioned several feet away.
FIVE: “Measure twice / cut once”. Please note you will need to measure and cut FOUR sections of tube See "Measure and Connect" points in the "Final Connections" section below. Always "measure twice / cut once". The tubing can be cut to length by careful use of a Stanley knife or kitchen scissors – ensure the end is cut square.
To remove tube fixed into a collet press the white collet ring IN while pulling the tube OUT.
(A VIDEO GUIDE is available for this online at UK-Water-Filters.co.uk see the Help section / Video Guides / How to remove your tubing from a Push Fit Connector).
Please note the MARKS we refer to in the images. These are summarised in Image 6 below.
STEP 1: ATTACH THE TOP FILTERS - See Image 1
1a) Take Filter 1 and Filter 2 from the box and attach them to the membrane on the top of the main unit (MARKED 3 on Image 1) using the double clips.
1b) Place the two filters in the correct order eg Filter 1 is at the back of the unit, on the fixing holes side.
1c) Ensure the filters point in the right direction by making sure the ends MARKED D on Image 1 are on the same side as D1 on the membrane. Use the two “tube extensions” at D1 as a guide.
1d) [If not already fitted] Join the two elbow adapters at Points D on Filters 1 and 2 together using the small tube provided - simply push the tube into the port.
(If necessary you can cut this 55mm tube yourself from one of the tubes provided).
STEP 2: POSITION THE REVERSE OSMOSIS UNIT
2a) This is the main unit that you have just added filters 1 and 2 to. It should be installed upright against a vertical surface in a position which allows for the filters and membrane to be replaced periodically.
Ideally it should be positioned close to the Faucet / Tap which you will be positioning later see Step 5 below to maximize the flow rate of pure water. So the likely position will be under your sink.
2b) Using the fixing bracket as a template, mark the position of the fixing screws.
NOTE: You must leave 40mm of space below the lower filter housings to allow for filter changes.
Now drill, insert rawl plugs and fit the screws.
STEP 3: CONNECT THE SADDLE VALVE - See Image 3
(A VIDEO GUIDE is available for this online at UK-Water-Filters.co.uk see the Help section / Video Guides / How to connect a water filter Saddle Valve to the water supply).
3a) Identify the mains cold water pipe, using a section that is straight and free from paint, scratches or dents.
3b) To connect the saddle valve to the cold water pipe: Finger-tighten the clamp by turning the bottom nut (i). Then tighten properly with a spanner.
NB Do NOT over-tighten. But make sure it is fixed very firmly.
3c) Once saddle clamp is secured firmly on the pipe turn the T bar tap (See ii) on the saddle clamp clockwise until it stops turning. (This action will pierce the pipe with a metal pin – invisibly.)
Turn T Bar tap all the way down.
NOTE: Turning the T bar tap all the way back will allow the water to flow. BUT Only do this later when you are ready to ‘start up’ the system.
STEP 4: DRAIN CLAMP - See Image 3
4a) The Drain Clamp (See i) should be fitted above the sink trap (ie the pipe loop under the sink), or onto a washing machine stand pipe. BE SURE TO COMPLY WITH LOCAL PLUMBING CODES.
4b) Choose your spot making sure there will be enough room for the Drain Clamp to fit together tightly around the pipe.
4c) Now drill a 4mm hole in the 1.5” plastic waste pipe. Then align the hole through the drain clamp (i) using a nail. Tighten the mounting bolts (See ii) firmly.
4d) Measure and Cut enough tube to reach from this Drain Clamp to reach MARK F on the main RO unit.
4e) Then push tube end into the thread hole on the Drain Clamp.
STEP 5: FAUCET / TAP - See Image 4
5a) Select the position of the tap on your counter or sink unit.
5b) Measure and cut enough RED TUBING to go from your tap to the main RO unit.
5c) Insert tap through the hole: Remove “A nut” - the upper ‘smaller one' - from tap tail and push tap tail through hole, first making sure that the above counter washers (i and ii) are fitted to tail as per the diagram. (These are: (i) Large chrome washer then (ii) large / bendy thin rubber washer.
5d) Having inserted tap tail through the hole now secure the tap underneath the counter by using the other washers ie (iii) metal washer, (iv) castellated metal washer then the (v) “A nut” using a spanner to tighten this up and secure the tap.
5e) Connect the pipe you measured at (5b) to the bottom of the tap: (IF ALREADY CONNECTED – see how they join up, undo before fitting tap and rejoin as below)
5f) Place the 2nd larger “bottom” B nut ( see i) onto this tube. See Image 5
5g) Then take the small white plastic “olive" (see ii) and push this about 1cm down the tube (Tip heat the olive in hot water to make it expand and fit more easily over the tube)
5h) Now push the tube up into the tap tail an inch or so.
5i) Now bring the nut up so that the small white plastic “olive” is pressed into the tap tail. (This makes it water tight).
5j) Finger tighten this nut then secure firmly with at least two full spanner turns. This secures the pipe into the tap tail.
STEP 6: FINAL CONNECTIONS - See Image 6
6a) From MARK F on Image 6 (Flow 300 Device) Measure and Connect a length of YELLOW TUBING to the Drain Clamp which you positioned in Step 4.
6b) At MARK A on Image 6 (located under the unit on the inlet side of the two vertical straight cylinders) connect the Saddle Valve - which you fitted in Step 3.
6c) Find tube MARK B on Image 6 probably sitting under the filters and join MARK E to MARK E ie the T-piece (on Image 6)
6d) From MARK G on Image 6 Measure and Connect a length of tubing between this and the Faucet / Tap - which you fitted in Step 5.
6e) From the parts box take the white tap / tank valve with the blue lever and screw it on to the storage tank.
Next from MARK C (of the T-piece) on Image 6 Measure and Connect a length of BLACK TUBING between the Storage Tank. The tube simply push fits into the white tap / valve on top of the storage tank.
6f) (If not already connected) Find white tube and join at MARK H on Image 6 of membrane filter. (This clips in with a blue clip)
START UP PROCEDURE
Once all the tubes are all tightly connected, open the Saddle Valve by turning the T bar tap a few turns back. (See Step 4 above). This will allow the water to flow. TIP: It’s a good idea to turn the T bar tap fully in and out 2 or 3 times to make sure the hole in the pipe is fully open . Now check everywhere for leaks.
Ensure the valve you attached to the top of the storage tank is open (ie lever is in-line with the tubing) while making sure the Faucet / Tap is OFF.
NOTE: It might take between one to six hours depending on your local water pressure to fill up the Storage Tank. While the tank is filling you will hear rejected water trickling out of the drain clamp into the waste. This is normal. It will stop once the tank is full (and will start again any time tank is filling i.e. replacing any water drawn from it.
CAUTION: A new system must be flushed out before use. Discard all the water made in the first two tank fills. Close off the water supply to the system using the Saddle Valve device or the Quick Connect In-Line shut off. Leave the Faucet / Tap open until the storage tank drains. Then open up the water supply again to refill the tank and repeat the process.
It is very important to follow the maintenance schedule to ensure optimum performance. Change consumables as follows: We will send you reminders.
PRE FILTERS --- UP TO SIX MONTHS
POST FILTERS --- UP TO SIX MONTHS
MEMBRANE --- 1 TO 3 YEARS (dependent upon feed water quality)
PRE FILTER CHANGING
(These are the two filters in the white cylinders underneath the unit)
Turn off the saddle valve (See Step 4) and isolate the storage tank by turning the storage tank valve to the closed position.
Open the Tap / faucet (see Step 5 above) to relieve any system pressure.
Place a drip tray beneath the module and remove the pre-filter housings that sit under the main unit by turning the sumps to the left using the spanner.
Clean out the insides of the housings with water and a mild detergent.
Take care not to scratch the insides of the housings.
It’s best to wear rubber / disposable gloves when fitting the new filters into the housings.
Re-fitting the housing sumps and re-pressurizing of the system is the reverse of the above stages.
POST FILTER CHANGING
(These are the two filters in the white cylinders on top of the unit ie Filter 1 and Filter 2)
The system should be shut down, as per above instructions for changing the pre filters.
To replace the in-line GAC post filter (Filter 1) and re-min filter (Filter 2) remove any blue collet clips before removing the fittings from each of the filters.
CAUTION: new filters must be flushed out before use. Discard all the water made in the first two tank fills. (Fill the tank then leave the Faucet / Tap open until the storage tank drains. Then refill tank. Repeat).
The membrane filter has already been inserted into the membrane casing horizontal on top.
The membrane is a fragile high value item so when it’s time to replace this filter it should be handled with care (using rubber / latex gloves).
Turn off the saddle valve (See step 3) and isolate the storage tank by turning the tank valve to the closed position. Open the faucet to relieve any system pressure.
Remove any blue collet clip from the elbow fitting on the membrane housing inlet cap then remove the tubing from the fitting by pushing down on the white collar (the collet) while pulling the tube.
Remove the membrane housing inlet cap. The old membrane can be removed from the housing using a pair of pliers. Dispose of responsibly.
Remove the new membrane from the transport packaging and insert it into the membrane housing making sure that the pipe with the two black ‘O’ rings go in first.
Push and twist the housing into place, so that the ‘O’ rings locate in the pure water outlet receptor.
Re attach the membrane housing cap and tubing,
Turn on the feed water saddle valve and check for leaks.
Open the storage tank valve and drain the storage tank.
IMPORTANT: The new membrane contains preservatives which need flushing away. Allow the system to refill - takes between 1 to six hours depending on your local water pressure - and then drain off any water that has been produced
NOTE 1: Low pressure? If your pressure is too low then you will need a pumped unit (retrofitting a pump is possible but difficult so not recommended). The simplest way to check for low pressure is to turn your cold water tap in the kitchen on full. Stand a few feet away. If you are being splashed with at least a few droplets then your pressure should be high enough. If it’s too low contact use to discuss getting a pumped unit instead (If you have an installer on site you could go ahead with part installation ie Steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 and when it arrives simply insert the pumped unit in place of the main unit (shown in Image 1)