Instructions for Health Practice Reverse Osmosis Filter with Pump

Product Code: RO-HP-PMP

Before You Start

No plumber needed. This system is designed for DIY installation. It will probably take you 60 to 90 minutes. If you'd like someone to do it for you, a reasonably skilled handyman can do it, so you don't need to pay plumber rates.

The tricky bits: Apart from drilling a small hole in your countertop for the new filtered water tap, the only challenge is if you don't have a suitable place on your under-sink waste pipe to fit the Drain Clamp (see Step 4). If so, you can simply fit a longer trap, which is a fairly simple job you can do yourself.

1) Read these instructions all the way through first. Note the Flow Diagram in the System Maintenance section below.

2) You need to be able to connect the system to a 100–240v AC power supply, but don't plug it in until the system is fully installed.

3) Tools you will need:

- An electric drill with a 12mm and a 4mm drill bit (for Steps 4 and 5)
- A spanner or pliers
- A Stanley knife or scissors for cutting tubes (always cut the tube ends square)
- A cross/flat screwdriver, plus rawlplugs and screws if you're fixing the bracket to the wall

4) Plan the layout of the main parts of your system, ie the main Reverse Osmosis unit and the storage tank. Ideally the main unit should be under your sink, close to the tap and the Drain Clamp (see Step 4). The tank should be close too, but if you have enough tube it can be several feet away. You can use a standard plug extension for the power supply.

Major Tips

To remove any tubing: press the white collet ring IN while pulling the tube OUT. (See our Video Guides: How to remove your tubing from a Push Fit Connector.)

Please note the marks we refer to in the images. These are summarised in the Flow Diagram below. There are also small label guides, eg behind the top bracket, showing which colour tube goes where.

CAUTION:

- This system is designed to treat cold water only. Water temperature must not exceed 45°C.
- Do not install the system outdoors.
- Do not place the unit in direct sunlight.

Installation Procedure

Step 1: Assemble the Main Unit

The top horizontal filters (Filters 1 and 2 and the membrane) should already be attached.

Attach the three lower housing chambers to the main header unit. Filters 3, 4 and 5 will already be inside the lower housing chambers. All three filters will look identical.

Screw the lower housing chambers onto their header.

Step 2: Position the Reverse Osmosis Unit

2a) This is the main unit you have just assembled in Step 1. It should be installed upright against a vertical surface, in a position that lets you replace the filters and membrane later.

Ideally it should be close to the tap, which you'll fit in Step 5, to maximise the flow of pure water. So the likely position will be under your sink.

2b) Using the fixing bracket as a template, mark the position of the fixing screws.

NOTE: You must leave 40mm of space below the lower filter housings to allow for filter changes. Now drill, insert rawlplugs and fit the screws. (If you don't have space to wall mount the unit, it will stand on its own.)

Step 3: Connect the Saddle Valve

Video guide: see our Video Guides: How to connect a water filter Saddle Valve to the water supply.

3a) Find the mains cold water pipe, using a section that is straight and free from paint, scratches or dents. Position the clamp onto the copper pipe.

Tip: make sure the pin underneath is fully withdrawn (invisible) by turning the T bar tap (ii), so the clamp sits snugly on the pipe.

Caution: This saddle valve is designed for hard copper pipes only. Do not use it on plastic pipes or soft copper pipes, ie the final stretch (usually several inches long) of soft copper pipe that may lead directly into the tap tail. The pin might dent soft copper before it pierces it, creating a larger hole or a small leak.

3b) Finger-tighten the clamp by turning the bottom nut (i). Then tighten properly with a spanner.

Do NOT over-tighten, but make sure it is fixed very firmly. One or two spanner turns after finger tight should do. Do not split your pipe! The aim is simply to make the saddle valve immovable on the pipe.

3c) Once the saddle clamp is secured firmly, turn the T bar tap (ii) clockwise until it stops turning. This pierces the pipe with a metal pin, invisibly. Turn the T bar tap all the way down.

NOTE: Turning the T bar tap back again will let the water flow. Only do this later, when you're ready to start up the system.

Step 4: Drain Clamp

4a) The Drain Clamp (i) should be fitted above the sink trap (the pipe loop under the sink), or onto a washing machine standpipe. Be sure to comply with local plumbing codes.

4b) Choose your spot, making sure there's enough room for the Drain Clamp to fit together tightly around the pipe.

4c) Now drill a 4mm hole in the 1.5" plastic waste pipe. Then line up the hole in the drain clamp (i) with it, using a nail. Tighten the mounting bolts (ii) firmly.

4d) Measure and cut enough YELLOW tube to reach from the Drain Clamp to the Waste Outlet shown in the Flow Diagram.

4e) Push the tube end into the threaded hole on the Drain Clamp.

Step 5: Faucet / Tap

5a) Choose the position of the tap on your counter or sink unit.

Tip 1: make sure you have room underneath to connect the tubing to the bottom of the tap. Now drill a 12mm hole.

Tip 2: use a smaller drill bit first to make a pilot hole.

5b) Measure and cut enough RED tube to go from your tap to the main RO unit.

5c) Insert the tap through the hole, first making sure the countertop washers are fitted to the top of the tap tail. In order from top to bottom, these are: Large Chrome Washer (i), which may have a blue protective film you can simply peel off, then the Large / Thin Washer (ii). See 5g below.

5d) With the tap tail through the hole, secure the tap using the remaining undercounter washers and parts. In order from top to bottom: Hard Washer (iii), Optional Washer (iv), then the Screw Thread Nut (v). (Ignore the shape of (v) and the tube below it. These are for older-style taps.)

5e) Connect the Quick Fit Connector (Image 5) to the bottom of the tap tail. It push-fits onto the tap tail. Pull it to check it's secure.

5f) Connect the RED tube to the Quick Fit Connector. The tube push-fits into the other end. Pull it to check it's secure.

5g) Note: If the Quick Fit Connector is already attached to the bottom of the tap, you can remove it by pushing in the collet (the small ring the tap tail goes into) while pulling out the tap tail.

Step 6: Connect the Storage Tank

6a) Wrap the thread on top of the storage tank with PTFE tape (4 or 5 turns, clockwise). Then screw the tank valve onto the top of the tank by hand. Don't over-tighten.

6b) Make sure the tank valve is closed for now (lever at right angles to the tubing).

6c) Measure and cut enough BLACK tube to go from the main RO unit to the tank valve, and push it firmly into the valve. Pull it to check it's secure. See the Flow Diagram for where it connects on the unit.

Start Up Procedure

1) Once all the tubes are tightly connected, open the Saddle Valve by turning the T bar tap a few turns back (see Step 3). This lets the water flow.

Tip: it's a good idea to turn the T bar tap fully in and out 2 or 3 times, to make sure the hole in the pipe is fully open.

2) Now check everywhere for leaks.

3) Open the storage tank valve you fitted in Step 6 (lever in line with the tubing) and make sure the tap is OFF.

4) Plug in the booster pump to a 100–240v AC power supply.

NOTE: It may take one or two hours to fill the storage tank. While it fills, you will hear rejected water trickling out of the drain clamp into the waste. This is normal. It stops once the tank is full, and starts again whenever the tank is refilling.

CAUTION: A new system must be flushed out before use. Discard all the water made in the first two tank fills.

To empty the tank: close off the water supply to the system using the Saddle Valve or the in-line shut-off valve on the blue tubing. Leave the tap open until the storage tank drains. Then open the water supply again to refill the tank, and repeat.

System Maintenance

It is very important to follow the maintenance schedule to keep the system working at its best. We will send you reminders. Change the consumables as follows:

Pre filters: up to 6 months
Post filters: up to 6 months
Membrane: 1 to 3 years (depending on your feed water quality)

Flow Diagram

Tube colours: BLUE = water supply in (from the Saddle Valve) | RED = purified water to the tap | BLACK = to and from the storage tank | YELLOW = waste water to the Drain Clamp

Troubleshooting

If the unit beeps / alarms, these are the most likely reasons:

1) The pure water TDS reading exceeds 50PPM. Solution: you need a new membrane (code MEM-RO).

2) The inlet water pressure is less than 0.3MPa, or there is a lack of water. Solution: check your incoming water supply is sufficient (see Solutions for the Lack Alarm below).

3) The display box has failed.

Specifications

Display Monitor Codes

FLUSH (the high pressure pump runs, the water inlet valve opens and the flushing valve opens)

1) When the machine is switched on, the power light comes on and it flushes automatically for 30 seconds.
2) After 4 hours of water production without a flush, it flushes automatically for 18 seconds.
3) After coming out of the water shortage program, it flushes automatically for 5 seconds.
4) The lower two digits of the small display show the remaining flush time, and the clock symbol flashes once a second.
5) Press the Washing button to force a 30 second flush.

WORK (the high pressure pump runs, the water inlet valve is open and the flushing valve is closed)

1) When the high pressure switch detects that the pressure in the storage tank is below the set value, the machine starts making water.
2) The lower two digits of the small display show the current TDS value. The upper limit is 100PPM. Above 100PPM, "100" and "OVR" flash alternately.
3) The probe and circuit board are paired at the factory, so please don't swap them.
4) TDS measurement is sensitive to interference, so the probe must stay fitted in the pipeline or the reading won't be accurate. If you have any questions, please call us.
5) Air bubbles in the pipe also affect the TDS reading, so let any air escape when you first use the system.

FULL (the high pressure pump stops, the water inlet valve closes and the flushing valve closes)

1) When the high pressure switch detects that the storage tank has reached the set pressure, the machine stops making water.
2) The display shows the last TDS value measured. TDS isn't measured while the tank is full.

LACK (the high pressure pump stops, the water inlet valve closes and the flushing valve closes)

1) When the low pressure switch detects that the incoming water pressure is below the set value, the machine enters the water shortage program and the buzzer sounds.
2) TDS isn't measured or displayed.

CHECK (the high pressure pump stops, the water inlet valve closes and the flushing valve closes)

1) If the machine runs for 12 hours in a row without making water, it has a fault and enters maintenance mode, prompting you to contact us. The buzzer beeps rapidly.
2) TDS isn't measured or displayed.

Solutions for the Lack Alarm

1) Check the Saddle Valve is fully open. Turn the T bar tap on the saddle clamp clockwise until it stops turning. This makes sure the pin has properly pierced the copper pipe. Turn it all the way down, then turn it a few turns back (anti-clockwise) to let the water flow.

2) Make sure the in-line shut-off valve on the blue tubing is open. The blue lever should be in line with the blue tubing when open. Turn the lever 90 degrees (it will only turn one way).

3) Before trying step 4: in case there was a problem fitting the saddle valve, you can ask us for a new saddle valve and fit it to a fresh section of copper pipe. Leave the existing saddle valve on the pipe in the closed position.

4) Last resort only: if the problem persists, you can connect the two yellow wires at the low pressure switch to switch off the water shortage alarm. However, the pump will then stay on and won't stop automatically, so switch it off at the plug when not in use to stop it overheating.

Any Problems? Please Telephone 020 8761 6611

Important Note re Reminders

To avoid long term bacteria build-up it is important to change your filters and membrane on time.

We will email you reminders when it's time to change, but please make sure you whitelist our email address so these reminders aren't sent to spam.

And/ or set an alarm now on your mobile or use Siri etc

Please note your feedback and any suggestions as to how we can improve our service are always appreciated.

Thank you

Sales Admin Team
Telephone 020 8761 6611

Water Filter instructions / Guides for fitting and installing