Instructions for Under-Sink Reverse Osmosis Water Filter System
Reverse Osmosis System
INSTALLATION AND MAINTENANCE INSTRUCTIONS
Product Code RO-UKWFC
Note about using a Plumber: This system is designed for DIY installation so no plumber is required. It will probably take you between 60 to 90 minutes.
If you want someone to do it for you a reasonably skilled handyman can do it - ie you don't need to pay plumber rates.
Difficult parts: Besides drilling a small hole in your countertop for your new filtered water tap the only challenge you might face is if you don't have a suitable place on your under sink trap to attach the Drain Saddle Clamp (See Step 4). In this case you can simply put in a longer trap - a fairly simple job which could be done yourself.
BEFORE YOU START
ONE: Carefully read through these instructions. Note the Installation Diagram at the end.
TWO: Make sure you have Normal Water Pressure
ie Minimum Water Pressure 2.7 bar (40psi) Maximum Water Pressure 5.8 bar (84psi). If you suspect your pressure is low - check this before installing. See Note 1 Below.
(Operating a system outside the guidelines will result in poor performance and will void the warranty).
For High Pressure You will need a Pressure Reducing Valve.
THREE: Tools you will need
1) A normal electric drill with a 12mm drill bit and a 4mm drill bit (For Steps 4 and 5).
2) A spanner or pliers.
3) Stanley knife or scissors for cutting tubes. (Always ensure the tube ends are cut square).
4) A cross/flat screwdriver (for Step 1) plus rawl plugs and screws (if attaching the bracket to the wall).
FOUR: We recommend you plan the layout / location of each major part of your new system. Ie the main Reverse Osmosis unit and the tank. Ideally at least the former needs to be under your sink, close to the tap and Drain Clamp - see Step 4 below. Your tank should be close as well but if you have enough tube it can be positioned several feet away.
FIVE: "Measure twice / cut once". Please note you will need to measure and cut FOUR sections of tube - the yellow tube (Step 4), the red tube (Step 5), the blue tube and the black tube (Step 6). See the "Measure and Connect" points below. Always "measure twice / cut once". The tubing can be cut to length by careful use of a Stanley knife or kitchen scissors - ensure the end is cut square.
MAJOR TIPS:
In case you wish to remove any tubing: Press the white collet ring IN while pulling the tube OUT. (VIDEO at UK-Water-Filters.co.uk see the Help section / Video Guides / How to remove your tubing from a Push Fit Connector).
Please note the MARKS we refer to in the images. These are summarised in Image 6 below.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
STEP 1: ATTACH THE TOP FILTERS - See Image 1
1a) Take Filter 1 and Filter 2 from the box and attach them to the membrane on the top of the main unit (MARKED 3 on Image 1) using the double clips.
TIP It's easier to pull the clips off the membrane first, then attach the clip to smaller filters (push/snap), then re-clip onto the larger membrane.
1b) Place the two filters in the correct order ie Filter 2 is at the back of the unit, on the fixing holes side of the mounting bracket.
1c) Ensure the filters point in the right direction by making sure the ends MARKED D on Image 1 are on the same side as D1 on the membrane. Use the two "tube extensions" at D1 as a guide.
1d) [If not already fitted] Join the two elbow adapters at Points D on Filters 1 and 2 together using the small tube provided - simply push the tube into the port.
(If necessary you can cut this 55mm tube yourself from one of the tubes provided).
1e) Open the two lower / bottom housing bowls and IF the pre-installed cartridges are wrapped in a plastic wrapping remove the plastic wrapping.
STEP 2: POSITION THE REVERSE OSMOSIS UNIT
2a) This is the main unit that you have just added filters 1 and 2 to. It should be installed upright against a vertical surface in a position which allows for the filters and membrane to be replaced periodically.
Ideally it should be positioned close to the Faucet / Tap which you will be positioning later see Step 5 below to maximise the flow rate of pure water. So the likely position will be under your sink.
2b) Using the fixing bracket as a template, mark the position of the fixing screws. (If you do not have space to wall mount the unit it will stand on its own).
NOTE: You must leave 40mm of space below the lower filter housings to allow for filter changes.
Now drill, insert rawl plugs and fit the screws.
STEP 3: CONNECT THE SADDLE VALVE - See Image 2
A VIDEO GUIDE is available for this - see the Help section / Video Guides at UK-Water-Filters.co.uk.
3a) Identify the mains cold water pipe, using a section that is straight and free from paint, scratches or dents. Position the clamp onto the copper pipe - Tip make sure the PIN underneath is fully withdrawn / invisible - by turning (ii) - so the clamp sits snugly on the pipe.
Caution: This saddle valve is designed to fit HARD COPPER ONLY. Do Not Use on PLASTIC PIPES or SOFT Copper pipes ie the final run (usually several inches long) of SOFT copper pipe that might lead directly into some tap tails. (This is because the pin might dent the soft copper before it pierces, creating a larger hole / small leak).
3b) To connect the saddle valve to the cold water pipe: Finger-tighten the clamp by turning the bottom nut (i). Then tighten properly with a spanner.
NB Do NOT over-tighten. But make sure it is fixed very firmly.
One or two spanner turns after "finger tight" should do. Do not split your pipe!
The aim here is simply to make the saddle valve immovable on the pipe.
3c) Once the saddle clamp is secured firmly on the pipe, turn the T bar tap (See ii) on the saddle clamp clockwise until it stops turning, ie all the way down. (This action will pierce the pipe with a metal pin - invisibly.)
NOTE: Turning the T bar tap all the way back will allow the water to flow. BUT Only do this later when you are ready to 'start up' the system.
STEP 4: DRAIN CLAMP - See Image 3
4a) The Drain Clamp (See i) should be fitted above the sink trap (ie the pipe loop under the sink), or onto a washing machine stand pipe.
4b) Choose your spot making sure there will be enough room for the Drain Clamp to fit together tightly around the pipe.
4c) Now drill a 4mm hole in the 1.5" plastic waste pipe. Then align the hole through the drain clamp (i) using a nail. Tighten the mounting bolts (See ii) firmly.
4d) Measure and cut enough YELLOW TUBING to reach from this Drain Clamp to MARK F on the main RO unit.
4e) Then push the tube end into the thread hole on the Drain Clamp.
STEP 5: FAUCET / TAP - See Image 4
5a) Select the position of the tap on your counter or sink unit.
TIP 1 Ensure you have room underneath to connect the filter to the bottom of the tap. Now drill a 12mm hole.
TIP 2 Use a smaller drill bit first to make a "pilot hole".
5b) Measure and cut enough RED TUBING to go from your tap to the main RO unit.
5c) Insert tap through the hole: First making sure the countertop washers are fitted to the top of the tap tail. These are (in order from top to bottom):
Large Chrome Washer - see (i) this might have a blue removable film on it which you can simply peel off.
Large / Thin Washer - see (ii).
5d) Having inserted the tap tail through the hole, now secure the tap by using the remaining undercounter washers / parts. These are (in order from top to bottom): Hard Washer - see (iii) Optional Washer - (iv) then Screw Thread Nut - see (v).
(Ignore the shape of (v) and the tube below. These are in case you have an old-style tap).
5e) Connect the Quick Fit Connector to the bottom of the tap tail - see Image 5 (and Note 5g below).
This push-fits on to the tap tail. Pull it to check it's secured.
5f) Connect the RED TUBING to the Quick Fit Connector. The tubing push fits into the other end. Pull it to check it's secured.
5g) Note: If the Quick Fit Connector is already connected to the bottom of the tap: you can remove it by pushing-in the collet / small ring - that the tap tail goes into - while pulling-out the tap tail. Doing this releases the connector.
STEP 6: FINAL CONNECTIONS - See Image 6
Tube colours: BLUE - water in from the Saddle Valve (MARK A). RED - pure water to the Faucet / Tap (MARK G). BLACK - to and from the Storage Tank (MARK C). YELLOW - waste water to the Drain Clamp (MARK F). WHITE - feed to the membrane (MARK H), usually already fitted.
6a) Connect the YELLOW TUBING you cut in Step 4 to MARK F on Image 6 (Flow 300 Device). The other end goes to the Drain Clamp.
6b) At MARK A on Image 6 (located under the unit on the inlet side of the two vertical straight cylinders) Measure and Connect a length of BLUE TUBING between this and the Saddle Valve - which you fitted in Step 3.
6c) Find tube MARK B on Image 6 probably sitting under the filters and join its end (MARK E) to MARK E on the T-piece (on Image 6).
6d) Connect the RED TUBING you cut in Step 5 to MARK G on Image 6. The other end goes to the Faucet / Tap - which you fitted in Step 5.
6e) From the parts box take the white tap / tank valve with the blue lever and screw it on to the storage tank. (If not factory fitted add plumber's tape to the screw thread - about 7 wraps should be fine).
Next from MARK C (the other end of the T-piece) on Image 6 Measure and Connect a length of BLACK TUBING between this and the Storage Tank. The tube simply push fits into the white tap / valve on top of the storage tank.
6f) (If not already connected) Find the white tube and join it at MARK H on Image 6 (on the membrane filter). (This clips in with a blue clip).
INSTALLATION DIAGRAM
START UP PROCEDURE
Once all the tubes are all tightly connected, open the Saddle Valve by turning the T bar tap a few turns back. (See Step 3 above). This will allow the water to flow. TIP: It's a good idea to turn the T bar tap fully in and out 2 or 3 times to make sure the hole in the pipe is fully open. Now check everywhere for leaks.
Ensure the valve you attached to the top of the storage tank is open (ie lever is in-line with the tubing) while making sure the Faucet / Tap is OFF.
NOTE: It might take between one and six hours depending on your local water pressure to fill up the Storage Tank. While the tank is filling you will hear rejected water trickling out of the drain clamp into the waste. This is normal. It will stop once the tank is full (and will start again any time the tank is filling ie replacing any water drawn from it).
CAUTION: A new system must be flushed out before use. Discard all the water made in the first two tank fills. Close off the water supply to the system using the Saddle Valve device or the Quick Connect In-Line shut off. Leave the Faucet / Tap open until the storage tank drains. Then open up the water supply again to refill the tank and repeat the process.
SYSTEM MAINTENANCE
It is very important to follow the maintenance schedule to ensure optimum performance. Change consumables as follows: We will send you reminders.
PRE FILTERS --- UP TO SIX MONTHS
POST FILTERS --- UP TO SIX MONTHS
MEMBRANE --- 1 TO 3 YEARS (dependent upon feed water quality)
PRE FILTER CHANGING
(These are the two filters in the white cylinders underneath the unit)
It's best to wear rubber / disposable gloves when fitting the new filters into the housings.
a) Turn off the saddle valve (See Step 3) and isolate the storage tank by turning the storage tank valve to the closed position.
b) Open the Tap / faucet (see Step 5 above) to relieve any system pressure.
c) Place a drip tray beneath the module and remove the pre-filter housings that sit under the main unit by turning the sumps to the left using the spanner.
d) Remove the old filters. Clean out the insides of the housings with water and a mild detergent. Take care not to scratch the insides of the housings.
e) Fit the new filters into the housings.
Re-fitting the housing bowls and re-pressurising the system is the reverse of the above.
POST FILTER CHANGING
(These are the two filters on top of the unit ie Filter 1 and Filter 2)
a) The system should be shut down, as per above instructions for changing the pre filters.
b) To replace the in-line GAC (carbon) post filter (Filter 1) and re-mineralisation filter (Filter 2) remove any blue collet clips before removing the fittings from each of the filters.
CAUTION: new filters must be flushed out before use. Discard all the water made in the first two tank fills. (Fill the tank then leave the Faucet / Tap open until the storage tank drains. Then refill the tank. Repeat).
MEMBRANE CHANGES
The membrane filter has already been inserted into the membrane casing (horizontal, on top).
The membrane is a fragile high value item so when it's time to replace this filter the new one should be handled with care (using rubber / latex gloves).
Turn off the saddle valve (See Step 3) and isolate the storage tank by turning the tank valve to the closed position. Open the faucet to relieve any system pressure.
Remove any blue collet clip from the elbow fitting on the membrane housing inlet cap then remove the tubing from the fitting by pushing down on the white collar (the collet) while pulling the tube.
Remove the membrane housing inlet cap. The old membrane can be removed from the housing using a pair of pliers. Dispose of responsibly.
Remove the new membrane from the transport packaging and insert it into the membrane housing making sure that the pipe with the two black 'O' rings goes in first.
Push and twist the membrane into place, so that the 'O' rings locate in the pure water outlet receptor.
Re-attach the membrane housing cap and tubing.
Turn on the feed water saddle valve and check for leaks.
Open the storage tank valve and drain the storage tank.
IMPORTANT: The new membrane contains preservatives which need flushing away. Allow the system to refill - takes between one and six hours depending on your local water pressure - and then drain off any water that has been produced.
TROUBLESHOOTING / FAULT FINDING
| Symptom | Possible Causes | Correction |
|---|---|---|
| Lack of Product Water | 1. Blocked pre-filter 2. Low water pressure 3. Tank exhausted |
1. Change pre filter 2. Fit a pumped unit (see Note 1) 3. Allow to refill |
| Tank heavy - No flow Water from air valve |
1. Air charge lost from tank 2. Bladder ruptured |
1. Inflate to 5psi empty 2. Replace tank |
| Water never stops running to drain | 1. Membrane badly fitted or failed | 1. Refit/replace |
| Water tastes 'off' | 1. Old filters 2. Bacteria in tank |
1. Replace 2. Sanitise |
| Black water after filter change | 1. Carbon fines from filter | 1. Quite normal - flush to clear |
OPERATING PARAMETERS
| Minimum Water Pressure | 2.7 bar (40psi) | Maximum Water Pressure | 5.8 bar (84psi) |
| Maximum Dissolved Solids | 1500ppm | pH range | 5 - 9 (inclusive) |
| Minimum Feed Water Temp. | 4°C (39°F) | Maximum Feed Water Temp. | 29°C (84°F) |
| Production Rate (max/24hr) | 150ltr * | Feed type | Mains cold water |
*Production rate is based upon optimum feed water conditions. Actual rate of production will depend upon site conditions and age of membrane.
INSTALLATION SPECIFICATION
| Main Module | Reservoir | General Data | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Height | 410mm | Height | 420mm | Saddle Valve | 10-15mm |
| Width | 340mm | Diameter | 280mm | Drain Clamp | 1.5" waste pipe |
| Depth | 140mm | Capacity (max) | 9ltr | DO NOT LET THE UNIT FREEZE | |
NOTE 1: Low pressure?
If your pressure is too low then you will need a pumped unit (retrofitting a pump is very difficult and potentially dangerous so not recommended).
The simplest way to check for low pressure is to turn your cold water tap in the kitchen on full. Stand a few feet away. If you are being splashed with at least a few droplets then your pressure should be high enough.
If it's too low contact us to discuss getting a pumped unit instead.
(If you already have an installer on site, in this situation you could go ahead with part installation ie Steps 2, 3, 4 and 5 and when it arrives simply insert the pumped unit in place of the main unit (shown in Image 1)).
