Reverse Osmosis Pumped – Installation and Maintenance Instructions

Reverse Osmosis – Installation and Maintenance Instructions

Units: RO-PMPA · RO-DEN-PMP · RO-HP-PMP

Note about using a plumber: This system is designed for DIY installation, so no plumber is required. It will probably take you between 60 and 90 minutes. If you want someone to do it for you, a reasonably skilled handyman can do it – i.e. you don't need to pay plumber rates.

Difficult parts: Besides drilling a small hole in your countertop for your new filtered water tap, the only challenge you might face is if you don't have a suitable place on your under-sink trap to attach the Drain Saddle Clamp (see Step 4). In this case you can simply put in a longer trap – a fairly simple job which you could do yourself.

Before You Start

ONE: Carefully read through these instructions. Note the Flow Diagram in the System Maintenance section.

TWO: You need to be able to connect the system to a 100–240v AC power supply but don't plug in until the system has been fully installed.

THREE: Tools you will need

1. A normal electric drill with a 12mm drill bit and a 4mm drill bit (for Steps 4 and 5).
2. A spanner or pliers.
3. Stanley knife or scissors for cutting tubes. (Always ensure the tube ends are cut square.)
4. A cross / flat screwdriver (for Step 1) plus rawlplugs and screws (if attaching the bracket to the wall).

FOUR: We recommend you plan the layout / location of each major part of your new system, i.e. the main Reverse Osmosis unit and the tank. Ideally at least the former needs to be under your sink, close to the tap and Drain Clamp – see Step 4 below. Your tank should be close as well, but if you have enough tube it can be positioned several feet away. You can use a standard plug extension for the power supply.

Major Tips

Installation Procedure

Step 1: Assemble the Main Unit

The top horizontal filters (Filters 1 and 2 and the membrane) should already be attached.

Attach the three lower housing chambers to the main header unit. The filters for these (i.e. Filters 3, 4 and 5) will already be inside the lower housing chambers.

Screw the lower housing chambers onto their header. Note that Filter 3 looks different to the other two (it's marked as a 5 micron polypropylene sediment filter – 5 μm PP Filter). It needs to screw up onto the first header section on the inlet side, where it's marked “BLUE TUBE”.

Step 2: Position the Reverse Osmosis Unit

2a) This is the main unit that you have just added Filters 1 and 2 to. It should be installed upright against a vertical surface in a position which allows for the filters and membrane to be replaced periodically.

Ideally it should be positioned close to the faucet / tap, which you will be positioning later (see Step 5 below), to maximise the flow rate of pure water. So the likely position will be under your sink.

2b) Using the fixing bracket as a template, mark the position of the fixing screws.

Step 3: Connect the Saddle Valve – see Image 2

A video guide is available for this. Use your mobile camera on this QR code to open the video, or find it at UK-Water-Filters.co.uk – see Help / Video Guides / How to connect a water filter Saddle Valve to the water supply.

3a) Identify the mains cold water pipe, using a section that is straight and free from paint, scratches or dents. Position the clamp onto the copper pipe. Tip: make sure the PIN underneath is fully withdrawn / invisible – by turning (ii) – so the clamp sits snugly on the pipe.

3b) To connect the saddle valve to the cold water pipe: finger-tighten the clamp by turning the bottom nut (i). Then tighten properly with a spanner.

NB: Do not over-tighten, but make sure it is fixed very firmly. One or two spanner turns after “finger tight” should do. Do not split your pipe! The aim here is simply to make the saddle valve immovable on the pipe.

3c) Once the saddle clamp is secured firmly on the pipe, turn the T bar tap (see ii) on the saddle clamp clockwise until it stops turning. (This action will pierce the pipe with a metal pin – invisibly.) Turn the T bar tap all the way down.

Step 4: Drain Clamp – see Image 3

4a) The Drain Clamp (see i) should be fitted above the sink trap (i.e. the pipe loop under the sink), or onto a washing machine stand pipe. Be sure to comply with local plumbing codes.

4b) Choose your spot, making sure there will be enough room for the Drain Clamp to fit together tightly around the pipe.

4c) Now drill a 4mm hole in the 1.5″ plastic waste pipe. Then align the hole through the drain clamp (i) using a nail. Tighten the mounting bolts (see ii) firmly.

4d) Measure and cut enough yellow tube to reach from this Drain Clamp to the waste water outlet in the Flow Diagram below.

4e) Then push the tube end into the thread hole on the Drain Clamp.

Step 5: Faucet / Tap – see Image 4

5a) Select the position of the tap on your counter or sink unit.

Tip 1: Ensure you have room underneath to connect the filter to the bottom of the tap. Now drill a 12mm hole.

Tip 2: Use a smaller drill bit first to make a “pilot hole”.

5b) Measure and cut enough RED TUBING to go from your tap to the main RO unit.

5c) Insert the tap through the hole, first making sure the countertop washers are fitted to the top of the tap tail. These are (in order from top to bottom):

• Large Chrome Washer – see (i). This might have a blue removable film on it, which you can simply peel off.
• Large / Thin Washer – see (ii). Note 5g below.

5d) Having inserted the tap tail through the hole, now secure the tap using the remaining undercounter washers / parts. These are (in order from top to bottom):

• Hard Washer – see (iii)
• Optional Washer – see (iv)
• Screw Thread Nut – see (v)

(Ignore the shape of (v) and the tube below. These are in case you have an old-style tap.)

5e) Connect the Quick Fit Connector to the bottom of the tap tail – see Image 5. This push-fits onto the tap tail. Pull it to check it's secured.

5f) Connect the RED TUBING to the Quick Fit Connector. The tubing push-fits into the other end. Pull it to check it's secured.

5g) Note: if the Quick Fit Connector is already connected to the bottom of the tap, you can remove it by pushing in the collet / small ring that the tap tail goes into, while pulling out the tap tail. Doing this releases the connector.

Start Up Procedure

Once all the tubes are tightly connected, open the Saddle Valve by turning the T bar tap a few turns back (see Step 3 above). This will allow the water to flow. Tip: it's a good idea to turn the T bar tap fully in and out 2 or 3 times to make sure the hole in the pipe is fully open. Now check everywhere for leaks.

Ensure the valve you attached to the top of the storage tank is open (i.e. the lever is in line with the tubing), while making sure the faucet / tap is OFF.

Plug in the booster pump to a 100–240v AC power supply.

To empty the tank: Close off the water supply to the system using the Saddle Valve or the Quick Connect in-line shut-off. Leave the faucet / tap open until the storage tank drains. Then open up the water supply again to refill the tank and repeat the process.

System Maintenance

It is very important to follow the maintenance schedule to ensure optimum performance. Change consumables as follows (we will send you reminders):

Flow Diagram

Troubleshooting

If the unit beeps / alarms

These are the most likely reasons:

• When the pure water TDS meter exceeds 50PPM, it will alarm. Solution: you need a new membrane (code MEM-RO).
• When the inlet water pressure is less than 0.3MPa, or there is a lack of water. Solution: check your incoming water supply is sufficient.
• If the display box fails, it will also alarm.

In addition, see the detailed table below.

Specifications

Display Monitor Codes

TDS Display Controller

Function description

Solutions

1) Check the water inlet valve, i.e. the Saddle Valve, is fully open.

Turn the T bar tap on the saddle clamp clockwise until it stops turning. (This will ensure the pin has made a true piercing in the copper pipe.) Turn the tap all the way down.

Then turn the T bar tap a few turns back (anti-clockwise) to allow the water to flow.

2) Make sure the in-line shut-off valve on the blue tubing is in the open position. The blue lever should be in line with the blue tubing when open. Turn the blue lever 90 degrees (it will only turn one way).

3) If the problem persists, you can connect the two yellow wires at the low pressure switch to eliminate the function of the water shortage alarm.